http://dvlaguide.co.uk/ en info@dvlaguide.co.uk Copyright 2008 2008-09-17T00:59:19+00:00 http://dvlaguide.co.uk/index.php/insurance_centre/van_insurance_tips http://dvlaguide.co.uk/index.php/insurance_centre/van_insurance_tips#When:02:21:52Z 1. Increase Your Voluntary Excess – The excess is the first part of a claim and it is paid by you. Often this is set at about £100 by the insurer. By increasing the amount you pay in voluntary excess, you can lower your premiums—and you can really lower them, sometimes up to 60% just by increasing the amount you pay IF you make a claim. By the way, you can get this cost back if the claim is deemed 'non-fault' by your insurer. 2. Prove Your Experience – Proving your experience can help you decrease the cost of your van insurance. Some van insurance companies apply discounts if you can show proof of driving other company vehicles. It is possible to protect the no–claims bonus simply by paying a protection fee, meaning if you do need to make a claim, your no–claims bonus is not affected. Get a quote now. 3. Declare Your No Claims Bonus – Some van insurers will “mirror” your no claims bonus from your car onto your van; it is really worth checking this out. Just remember that you are unable to transfer this bonus from car to van…only “mirror” it. 4. Bumper Sticker – A little known step you can take to lower your premiums is placing a bumper sticker on your van, which asks people to phone if you drive poorly. 5. Improve Your Security – Lowering the risk, by protecting and improving your van’s security will lower your insurance costs. By storing your van in a garage or installing an alarm your insurer will most likely lower your premium. 6. Drive Less – This maybe hard to do, especially if you use the van for work but the less mileage you put on your van then the less expensive the premium should be. 7. Trailer Weight – Many van drivers need to tow trailers and machinery. The most important factor to look at when towing a trailer is to check its weight. Remember not to exceed the weight limits of your trailer, this is illegal and can result in penalty points, and it will increase your van insurance. 8. Van Size – In this case, size does matter. When buying a van, consider the engine size and van size. Generally bigger vans mean bigger van insurance premium. 9. Shop Around – There are many different insurers with a variety of policies and rates. We've selected a few top van insurance special offers from names you know and trust. Just click, fill out a quote form and instantly get free quotes from top van insurance providers. Select the lowest rates and save. It's that simple. Get a quote now. Get a van insurance quote now from names you know and trust. Insurance Centre 2008-12-17T02:21:52+00:00 http://dvlaguide.co.uk/index.php/insurance_centre/car_insurance_tips http://dvlaguide.co.uk/index.php/insurance_centre/car_insurance_tips#When:02:14:21Z 1. Increase Your Voluntary Excess – The excess is the first part of a claim and it is paid by you. Often this is set at about £100 by the insurer. By increasing the amount you pay in voluntary excess, you can lower your premiums—and you can really lower them, sometimes up to 60% just by increasing the amount you pay IF you make a claim. By the way, you can get this cost back if the claim is deemed ‘non–fault’ by your insurer. 2. Protect Your No–Claims Bonus – A no–claims bonus on your car insurance is a discount awarded on a renewal because no claim was paid in the previous year. The more claims you make, the more your premium goes up. In theory, the more years you go without making a claim, the less you pay for car insurance. A no–claims bonus varies from one insurer to another but typically will be in between 60–75% over five years and is applied as a discount on car insurance premium. It is possible to protect the no–claims bonus simply by paying a protection fee, meaning if you do need to make a claim, your no–claims bonus is not affected. It is possible to protect the no–claims bonus simply by paying a protection fee, meaning if you do need to make a claim, your no–claims bonus is not affected. Get a quote now. 3. Fit An Alarm – Fit an approved alarm and immobiliser. All improvements to security will help to lower your car insurance costs. Some insurers could even insist on sophisticated tracking devices before they will insure expensive cars. 4. Immobiliser – This is a security device to prevent thieves from stealing a car even if they gain entry. An electronic immobiliser is part of the engine control unit (ECU), and prevents the car from being started unless it recognises signals from a transponder in the key. Every new car in the UK has to have an electronic immobiliser fitted by law. You can also protect your car with a mechanical immobiliser such as a steering lock. 5. Paying Annually – Can save you on the total cost of the insurance premium. Often insurers will charge you more in interest to make monthly payments. But more and more insurers are offering monthly payment at no extra charge as an incentive. 6. Multiple Insurances – If you have multiply insurance policies like a second vehicle or homeowner policy you will enjoy further discount. 7. Woman Often Get Better Rates – It’s true, so why not use this to your advantage. It might be cheaper to have the female member of family as the policy holder. 8. Drive Less – Check your mileage to make sure you are not paying extra for miles you are not driving. Remember, when they ask you how many miles you will driver per year—the higher the number the more you will pay. 9. Minimise Your Optional Extras Only select to have a courtesy car or legal expenses if you really need them, as they may increase your premium. The less your motor insurance company has to provide in the event of an accident, the lower your costs will be. 10. Be Careful Where You Park Keep your car parked in a locked garage overnight if you can. this can help reduce the premium. More than 50% of vehicle thefts occur during the night so if your car is safely locked away it makes sense that your insurance costs will be reduced. If you don’t have access to a garage, then parking on a driveway is generally considered a lower risk than parking on the road. It’s less likely that vandalism, theft or accidental damage will occur when you’re off the highway. 11. Pass Plus Equals Reduced Premiums If you’re a new driver looking to get your first car and car insurance we’d highly recommend that you take your Pass Plus in order to reduce your premiums. Pass Plus is a training course specifically aimed at new drivers, designed by the Driving Standards Agency (DSA) with the help of insurers and the driving instruction industry. The Pass Plus certificate can only be obtained within the first year of passing your practical driving test.When your instructor is satisfied with your performance you will receive a certificate from the Driving Standards Agency (DSA). This certificate you will earn you large discounts with a whole host of insurance companies participating in the Pass Plus scheme. 12. Shop Around – There are many different insurers with a variety of policies and rates. We’ve selected a few top car insurance special offers from names you know and trust. Just click, fill out a quote form and instantly get free quotes from top van insurance providers. Select the lowest rates and save. It’s that simple. Get a quote now. Get a car insurance quote now from names you know and trust. Insurance Centre 2008-12-17T02:14:21+00:00 http://dvlaguide.co.uk/index.php/how_to_guides/insurance_guide http://dvlaguide.co.uk/index.php/how_to_guides/insurance_guide#When:01:12:46Z Below, is Quick Guide to UK Insurance Cover Third Party Only This cover is the legal requirement. This level of cover ensures that injury compensation is available other people (including your passengers) or damage to other peoples' property resulting from an accident caused by you. It doesn't cover any costs incurred by you as the result of an accident. So, if it's your fault, you have to pay from your own pocket, the costs involved in repairing your vehicle. Third Party Fire and Theft This provides the same cover as Third Party Only and also insures you should your vehicle be damaged by fire or stolen. Comprehensive This provides the same cover as third party fire and theft. However, it also covers you should your vehicle be damaged in an accident. Many additions to this level of cover are available from insurance companies like: providing a courtesy car while your car is being repaired roadside recovery vehicle breakdown repairs in case of What if You're Involved in an Accident? If you have an accident that causes damage or injury to any other person, vehicle, animal or property, there re a few things you have to give to anyone involved in the accident: give both your own and the vehicle owner's name and address registration number of the vehicle If you don't give your details then you should report the accident to the police as soon as possible within 24 hours. You must also report the accident to your insurer, even if you're not intending to make a claim. What If You're Involved in an Accident with an Uninsured Motorist? Any accident with an uninsured driver should ALWAYS be reported to the police. You should also report any accident to your insurer. Additionally, the Motor Insurers' Bureau (MIB) ensures that compensation is available to the innocent victims of uninsured drivers or hit and run (untraced) drivers. UK Vehicle Insurance and Driving Overseas All UK policies provide the minimum cover required by law in other European Union (EU) countries or the minimum cover required by UK law if that is greater. This cover doesn't automatically include theft or damage to your car. Most people want the same protection they have in the UK when travelling abroad, for example comprehensive or third party, fire and theft. This could, in addition to the legal minimum of third party liability cover, include accidental damage to, or theft of or from, your own vehicle, depending on the policy cover. A number of insurers automatically provide this extended cover for a specified period and often without additional charge. It's important, however, that you check with your insurer before you go abroad. Buying Motor Insurance Tips Questions you should ask when applying for insurance Remember, the insurance quote you get is based on how likely you are to make a claim. Common questions asked will include: the vehicle details what the vehicle will be used for where the vehicle will be kept the ages and occupations of the people who will be driving the vehicle any penalty points on your licence or convictions for driving offences any no-claims bonus and how long you have been driving for any recent insurance claims Once all your details have been taken, you'll be offered a quote and, if you accept the quote you will be sent insurance documents in the post. No-Claim Discount/Bonus This is definitely the most talked about part of the insurance policy. The rules can often change from one insurance company to another. Make sure you get the right correct details from your insurer. Basically, a no-claim bonus a reduction in your premium (the amount you pay) in return for you not making a claim. That is it really. Over a period of years in which the discount is earned (usually four or five), it can lead to as much as a 75 per cent reduction in the cost of your insurance. The no-claim bonus should stay with you even if you change insurers. You may lose all or part of your discount if you make a claim and your insurer is unable to recover its outlay from someone else. Many insurers will allow you to protect your no-claim discount for an additional fee or for a slight reduction in the discount scale. This means that even if you make, say, two claims in a three year period you'll be able to keep your no-claim discount. Remember, this practice varies from company to company. What is the Policy Excess? This is an amount agreed between yourself and the insurer that you'll pay if there's a claim. Generally this varies between £100 and £250 and can often be negotiated. The more you are prepared to pay, the lower your overall insurance premium will be. Three Insurance Documents You Must Have There are three must have documents when you take out a policy of motor insurance, the certificate, the policy and the schedule. Don't forget to check to see that the details are correct and to get them amended if they're not, it may save a huge headache of you ever need to make a claim. The Insurance Certificate This contains details of the vehicle insured, the driver(s) named to use the vehicle, the use of the vehicle which is insured and the dates for which the policy is valid. This is the document that provides legal evidence of insurance cover and is required should an accident occur, when the vehicle needs to be taxed or if you're asked to produce it by the police. The Insurance Policy This sets out in full the terms and conditions of the insurance cover you purchased. The Insurance Schedule This document gives you all the specific details to your policy like excesses, no-claim discount and which parts of the policy apply to you. You may be given an insurance cover note when you first take out an insurance policy. The cover note acts as a certificate and temporary policy while the full documents are produced. How To Guides 2008-11-19T01:12:46+00:00 http://dvlaguide.co.uk/index.php/how_to_guides/how_to_fill_out_paperwork http://dvlaguide.co.uk/index.php/how_to_guides/how_to_fill_out_paperwork#When:01:50:26Z V5 Vehicle Registration Document You will need to fill one of these out when you buy your vehicle. This guide will help you through the process. At the top of page one, on the right side, there is a white box for the registration mark. Check to see if the registration mark at the top of the page correct? Page One Is the registered keeper name and address the same as that of the seller? If not, why not?How many owners does the log book say the car has had? Is it the same number ‘as described’ in the advert?Are there any special notes about the car? This should be rare. Page Two Do the car details match those listed in section four? In particular, is the VIN number the same? The VIN plate can be found on most cars in the engine bay, by the driver's door or by the windscreen.This section should match the details overleaf on page one. This is where to enter your details if buying the car. Any changes to the car should be listed. Are you happy with the information? Page Three The declaration at the bottom of the page needs signing to complete the transfer. Page Four Section 9 is only to be used when the car is being dismantled.You should keep this section in case the documents get lost at the DVLA when you send them off.Section 11 is to be used only if you are exporting the car. How To Guides 2008-09-17T01:50:26+00:00 http://dvlaguide.co.uk/index.php/how_to_guides/when_and_where_to_buy http://dvlaguide.co.uk/index.php/how_to_guides/when_and_where_to_buy#When:01:45:25Z When to Buy Because new number plate registrations become available in March and September, lots of people part-exchange their car for a new one. This causes an over supply which drives used car prices down. Mid-March to early May and Mid-September to early November are regarded as the best times to buy used cars. Where To Buy Franchise Dealers Positives: Approved used car scheme High quality cars Lots of legal ‘comeback’ if you have a problem. The new European directive means you now have six months to complain Will offer part exchange Negatives: Expensive car prices and labour prices Better value warranties and finance can be arranged privately Limited range of makes Service not necessarily better than independents Independent Dealers Positives: Reasonable prices More inclined to give a discount Legal ‘comeback’ if you have a problem Will offer part exchange Specialists really know their stuff and care about their reputation, so they offer a good service Find a good independent or independent specialist and you will have the best experience Negatives: Quality varies significantly. You must judge them on a case-by-case basis. Better value warranties can be arranged privately, so do not let the dealer use it as a negotiation tool to keep the car price up Car Supermarkets Positives: Lots of stock, you can drive away with a car Pretty good prices Lots of legal ‘comeback’ if you have a problem Negatives: Check all the prices carefully; some will not be as much of a saving as the much talked about offers Better value warranties and finance can be arranged privately Limited movement on price Not as interested in part exchange like dealers Customer care can vary Cars sold as ‘new’ because they are low mileage, but actually may already have one owner in the log book Cars can be imports You can sometimes be charged a standard ‘pre-sale’ inspection fee. This is you paying for a valet and administration costs. Check the small print. Private Sales Positives: The best prices (if you do it right) Endless choice If you know what to do, you can have the same peace of mind as from any other option This is the most satisfying way to buy a car. And should be the cheapest too. Negatives: No legal comeback (but you can get other protection such as a private warranty) You need to spend slightly more time to ensure you get a great deal and a great car No part exchange Auctions Positives: Amazing bargains can be found Fun way to buy a car Negatives: A lot of stock arrives at auctions because it would not sell elsewhere You have limited opportunities to check the car No part exchange Intimidating environment where it is easy to over-bid because you are forced to think quickly Limited legal comeback (you must read the auction house's terms and conditions before bidding to find out what comeback you have) Direct Internet Buying Positives: Bargains can be found on new, nearly new and used cars Highly convenient. Negatives: Legal comeback depends on who is selling the car You may have to buy ‘unseen’ Not the same customer care or contact point as buying from a showroom or individuals Organising payment can present problems How To Guides 2008-09-17T01:45:25+00:00 http://dvlaguide.co.uk/index.php/how_to_guides/how_to_negotiate_the_price http://dvlaguide.co.uk/index.php/how_to_guides/how_to_negotiate_the_price#When:01:40:38Z How to Negotiate the Price of the Car You Buy in the UK Always expect to receive a discount. If you go into a buying situation not expecting to receive a discount, you will not get one. Be positive and you'll be amazed how easy it is when you ask the right questions. Tip 1 Build rapport but do not make a friend. Blunt or aggressive negotiation will not work. Rarely does a car seller need your purchase so badly that they will tolerate rudeness. Chat to them and be warm whilst looking at the car. But do not get too friendly or feel sorry for the seller because you want to get a good deal. Tip 2 Ask for a discount without being embarrassed. Tell the sales person: “I would love to buy this car, but my wife/husband will go nuts if I pay this price. What can you do to help me?” It does not necessarily matter if your partner does not mind what you pay - or even that you do not have a partner. This is called using higher authority. It means that you can remain on good terms with the seller, but still push for a better deal. It makes the seller more inclined to move on price. Tip 3 Never accept the first offer. It makes the salesman think he has offered too much but he still has more discount to give. Whatever they offer say, “that helps, but I'm still not sure I could face my partner.” Or: “Surely you can do better than that?” Tip 4 Use the power of silence. If the salesman makes you an offer, or you have asked him to improve his offer, resist the temptation to speak. Just wait. For several minutes if necessary. The silence will be painful for you, but more painful for the salesman. Eventually he will crack and start to offer you ‘sweeteners’ to close the deal. Tip 5 Know your prices. When dealing with garages, make sure you know what's on offer at other garages in the area. Many will match the offers of their competitors, so you just have to ask, “Will you match your competitor's prices?” Tip 6 Ask garages for added value. If you have exhausted the potential discount options, ask the garage for bonus items. For example say, “the stereo's not very good and all the mats need replacing.” Tip 7 Let go of the emotion. It is hard not to be excited when buying a car. But you need to let go or you will not be able to negotiate the best deal. Always tell yourself: ‘There will be another car that is just as good or maybe even better’. Tip 8 Ask questions in garages: “How's business?” If it is good, say: “Oh well, I was hoping to get a deal, but I'll leave it.” If it is bad, say: “Well, if I can get the right price, you might get a sale today.” “How can you help me get the price down?” “When will there be a special offer on? I can come back.” “Who has the authority to make decisions on discounts?” Questions for Private Sellers: “Why do you want to sell?” “How quickly do you want to sell?” “What can you do on the price please?” Tip 9 Start low and concede reluctantly. If you can afford £5,000, offer less so that you have room to move. If they baulk at your offer, stay calm and ask: ÒWhat would you accept?Ó Then, pretend to baulk yourself, perhaps even wince. And make another offer. Tip 10 Avoid splitting the difference, or meeting in the middle. If you offer to split the difference the sales person will split it again, which means you have moved 75 per cent of the way towards their price and they have only moved 25 per cent towards you. If the sales person offers to split the difference, say: “I cannot do that, but I'll meet you half way between my offer and the offer you just made.” Closing the Deal After the negotiation: Pay a deposit of £50 - £100 and get a written receipt, stating the price, car details and seller's information. When you return to collect the car: Pay the balance by bank cheque (just ask your bank for a bank cheque to buy a car). Ensure you have the V5 log book (filled out by the seller to confirm the sale) and a bill of sale before you drive away. How To Guides 2008-09-17T01:40:38+00:00 http://dvlaguide.co.uk/index.php/how_to_guides/used_car_buyers_checklist http://dvlaguide.co.uk/index.php/how_to_guides/used_car_buyers_checklist#When:01:35:19Z Used Car Buyers' Checklist Here are the top three standard checks to make for each area of a used car. They will help you identify any misuse or signs of neglect or accident damage. Print this out and take it with you when you insect potential used cars. Interior Do all the lights work? Do all the controls, switches and displays work properly? Are the carpets and seats all dry? If not, is there a leak? Bodywork Is the bodywork free from dents, scratches and rust? Make sure you are not checking the car in the wet or the dark, as you are more likely to miss problems Squat down and look along the sides of the car to help you spot mild dents Pull back rubber seals around windows. Is the paintwork free from over-spray and suspect repair signs? Look for signs of additional layers of paint, or ill-matching spray marks where an additional layer of paint has been added but the finish is not right. These are signs of an accident repair Open the boot and bonnet. Is the metal work in good condition? Wherever there is exposed metal you need to look for ill-matching colours or buckling. These are signs of an accident Engine Is the exhaust smoke-free when the engine is warm? If not, there may be a problem Is the coolant reservoir full of brightly coloured coolant? It should not be empty or brown. If not, are there any leaks that need further inspection? Is there plenty of clean oil in the engine? If the oil in the engine smells burnt there may be a problem. Test Drive Does the car drive in a straight line when you loosen your grip on the wheel? Is the steering accurate and free from play or judder? Does the car pull away and brake easily without any noises or judder? If you are unable tick one or more of the boxes, the car should be inspected by a professional. It is better to spend a few quid now and be sure then to send much more later on. How To Guides 2008-09-17T01:35:19+00:00 http://dvlaguide.co.uk/index.php/fun_stuff/car_manufacturers http://dvlaguide.co.uk/index.php/fun_stuff/car_manufacturers#When:01:34:59Z Dreaming Of a New Car? Manufacturers Are Counting On It! Car forecourts are designed for you to bath in the "new car smell," and climb behind the wheel to imagine cruising down your life's highways. The Internet has spawned a new version of "car junkie" and manufacturers are tuned in. Car maker web sites offer you the opportunity to explore new models before they hit the showroom floor, design your car from start to finish, and even provide ordering and financing options to complete a purchase from the comfort of your own home? Even at 3 in the morning. These sites provide you with the latest news, investment details, financing and purchasing options, and parts and service information. You can browse through models, participate in message boards for owners or potential buyers even watch videos of the car of your dreams. Alfa Romeo Well recognised Italian car manufacturer. Aston Martin Official Aston Martin website of the renowned British sports classic. Audi Luxury German car manufacturer. BMW Get the latest info from the Bavarian car giant. Cruise through the range of sleek new looks and options and find what gets you going. Chevrolet Tailored to European needs, today's new Chevrolet range is supported by an extensive network of retailers in 44 countries. Chrysler North American car, jeep and sports car manufacturer. Citroen UK Official site for the French car maker. Daimler Chrysler UK Responsible for Mercedes-Benz, Chrysler and Jeep in the UK. Ferrari Ferrari is one of the most evocative names in the world. Each Ferrari model combines performance and style in a way unique to the marque. There are now more than 5000 Ferrari cars in the UK. Fiat Official site for this Italian company. Ford Popular North American car manufacturer Honda UK Japanese car manufacturer. Hyundai Korean car manufacturer. Isuzu Japanese 4x4 official website. Jaguar Luxury British car producer. Kia UK Official Kia car website. Land Rover Dedicated to the British 4x4 manufacturer. Lotus Official Lotus cars website. Mazda Japanese car and sports car manufacturer. MG Cars (Rover Group Ltd) Official MG website. Mini (BMW) The much loved Mini is now produced by BMW. Mitsubishi Motors UK Japanese car and four-wheel drive manufacturer. Morgan Motor Company Ltd Everything for the classic Morgan enthusiast. Nissan Japanese car manufacturer. Peugeot Motor Company Official Peugeot cars website. Porsche Famous sports car designer and manufacturer. Proton Official website from this recognised car manufacturer. Renault French car manufacturers website. Rolls Royce Motor Cars British executive car manufacturer. Saab Luxury Swedish car manufacturer. Seat UK Official Seat car manufacturers website. Skoda Official Skoda car manufacturer. Subaru Japanese car manufacturer. Suzuki Japanese car and jeep manufacturer. Toyota Japanese motor company website. TVR Cars Distribution Ltd Official site for this British built sports car. Vauxhall Official Vauxhall motors website. Volkswagen Official website of the German car manufacturer VW. Volvo Volvo cars official website. Westfield Sports Cars Self-build sports cars with quality and value chassis/body kits for home completion. Fun Stuff 2008-09-17T01:34:59+00:00 http://dvlaguide.co.uk/index.php/how_to_guides/how_to_buy_a_new_car http://dvlaguide.co.uk/index.php/how_to_guides/how_to_buy_a_new_car#When:01:30:39Z How to Buy A New Car In the UK It doesn't matter if you're buying a city car or plain old hot rod, nothing matches the experience of driving a brand-new motor off the forecourt for the first time. Every new car buyer needs to step back and make some key decisions before splashing out on a new motor. That's where this guide comes in. What to buy Sounds simple and you probably have a good idea of what car suits your needs, but consider this list to make sure the car of your dreams measures up. How deep are your pockets? You may be able to afford the sticker price, but what about insurance, running costs, depreciation and servicing. Ask about these and even speak to owners of the type of car you're considering to get the fuller picture. There's no point scraping to buy a Porsche if you can't afford drive it. What do you need from the car? Is it going to be a high mileage mule or pampered toy? Be honest with yourself and consider the sort of driving you do, how often you carry passengers and luggage. For example, an off-roader can double as an MPV, while small hatchbacks offer almost as much space as a full-size family car. If you've got kids, can they all fit in the back in child seats or strapped in by a three-point seat belt? If in doubt, take them along, and if the salesman isn't happy there's always another dealer around the corner. Match the car to your lifestyle, not the other way around. Shop around for finance before buying. Loans, finance and insurance are all negotiable, and don't be railroaded by a sales person who sees the glint in your eye. Study the options list. Air conditioning is a must, as is a CD player. These items make life more pleasurable for you and the car easier to sell on. Colour me impressed. If you can't live without a pink Mini, you'll be hard pushed to shift it when you come to sell. But silver with the right extras will have 'em queuing up. Blue is the most popular colour choice in the UK, followed by red and then silver. The more individual you make a new car, the fewer potential buyers you will have when you want to sell it later. Where to buy There are a surprising number of options when buying new. All have their advantages and drawbacks. Franchised dealers, or main dealers, are the most common place to buy a new car. Appointed by the manufacturer, they provide a one-stop shop for buying, servicing and repairs. Ease of use is the big draw, but bear in mind they work to tightly controlled targets and will resist dropping the price as much as possible. Importing a car from abroad was seen as the way to beat Rip-off Britain a few years ago, but UK car prices have fallen into line with the rest of Europe. There are still savings to be had, but this is balanced out by the hassle of doing the paperwork in a foreign language and the risk that the car will not be to the UK spec. A good way to avoid the pitfalls of importing is to use a broker. A broker charges a fee for arranging your new car purchase, but they are usually cheaper than franchised dealers. Check the small print, though, because you may have to collect the car yourself. Buying a car online is now as simple as any other mouse-clicking purchase. Shop around, study the small print, and ask for referrals from satisfied customers. Your statutory rights are just the same as when buying from any dealer. Car supermarkets may not offer the Bauhaus-inspired architecture of a franchised dealer's showroom, but they take the sting out of haggling. The price you see is the price you pay. These guys live by stacking 'em high, selling 'em a bit cheaper than a main dealer. The downside is there's little room for negotiation. When to buy September is the most popular month for new cars - a hangover from the old annual registration change. Now car registrations change twice a year; it gives the canny buyer two chances for a discount. The reason is simple: dealers want to rid themselves of any old or pre-registered stock before the new reg arrives, which means 24 hours can make the difference between discount and disappointment. But if you buy just before the latest registration mark arrives, your new car will still be regarded as six months older when you come to sell than your neighbour's with the newer reg. If you can't wait until then, the end of the month is the best time to talk tough on new car. Dealers are keen to boost their monthly sales figures and this is the time they will be most generous. Holiday times are another good bet for securing a deal. While the rest of the country is busy spending money elsewhere, July and August are quiet for car dealers, so make the most of it because they need your business. The same applies to January, when most people have a financial hangover from Christmas. The test drive Next comes the all-important test drive - and there's more to this than a simple spin around the block. Follow these steps to make sure the car is as suitable for you as the salesman wants it to be. STEP 1 Before you even park your posterior, a few checks are in order. Is your garage wide enough to accommodate the car you're looking at? Also check that the boot is big enough for the pushchair/golf clubs/suitcases/booze? Sit in the back, too, especially if you intend to carry passengers on a regular basis. STEP 2 Take the time to adjust the seat properly and get comfortable. The salesperson will be giving you the hard sell, but ignore then and check the main controls are within easy reach. Does it feel solid, and are there enough pockets to keep your sweets in? Does it have a drink holder for your two quid bottle of water. Does it have the latest iPod thingy to play your 10,000 Cds stored on your MP3 player. STEP 3 When you're happy and comfortable, it's time to get going. Choose a test route that takes in the sorts of roads you will use the car on. If you spend most of your life in treacle-like town traffic, is that heavy clutch going to leave you walking with a limp? Think about the way the car rides. You may enjoy rally handling, but if your local roads are full of potholes can you stand the firm set-up? STEP 4 If you're a King or Queen of the motorway, go for a decent stretch on a multi-laner and listen out for a rumpus from the engine and any wind noise creeping into the cabin. STEP 5 When you get back to the showroom, try out reverse gear and check out rear visibility. Also try out a three-point or u-turn - if you do lots of in-town driving, maneuverability is important. STEP 6 Don't hurry, and aim to spend an hour driving the car.If all's well at the end, there's a final test, and that's finding out if you can get out of the car without the need of a the jaws of life. Levering yourself out of a low-slung sports car can put as much as pressure on the knees as lifting a fully-grown fat Briton. Trading in The time has come to say goodbye to the old motor. Its final faithful act is to help finance the next jewel in your driveway's crown, but do you risk tyre-kickers by selling privately or a lower, but hassle-free, trade-in from a dealer? Follow these tips to get the best deal: Depreciation is the biggest single cost of new car ownership, so getting the best deal offsets the cost of buying the next new one. The difference between what you paid for the car new and what you get when you sell is the amount of money you have lost in depreciation. The aim here is the make the gap as small as possible. It's simple and cheap to advertise a car for sale privately, either in one of the many magazines or on the Internet. The upside is you will recoup more money selling the car yourself. The downside is you expose yourself to the great unwashed wanting to test drive your car. If you choose to sell privately and agree a deal, make sure the money is resting in your bank account before handing over the keys and documents. Genuine buyers will be happy to agree to this. Really, don't give away the motor without the cheque clearing. Another pitfall of selling privately is theft or damage. Check out potential buyers who are they say they are. Don't be shy about asking for identification and a hefty deposit while they test drive the car. Make sure either you're insured for them to drive the car or they are covered on their own insurance. Private sale with an online auction. This puts a definite time on when the car is sold and can make you more money than you initially thought. Or not. Describe the car honestly and you should have no comebacks. Trade-ins are usually quick and simple. The dealer appraises your car and offers a price based on condition and mileage. Shop around a few dealers because values can vary considerably. Don't show your trade-in hand too early when negotiating the price of your new car. Wait until the dealer has made his best offer, then introduce the trade-in and use it as a further bargaining lever. You can simply sell your car to a dealer, take the cash and do as you please with it. A dealer will be reluctant to take this route as they are not selling you another car and will have to spend money preparing your old motor to sell it on. This is a quick and painless way to sell, but expect a rock bottom price even lower than a trade-in value. Picking up your new car You've been calm and collected up to now, but hang in there for a few more minutes. What could be worse than finding a fault with the object of your desire? Give the car a thorough check before driving off the forecourt and you can avoid this. Check the paintwork is flawless, the bodywork perfect and the wheels ding-free. Get your fine-tooth comb out and run it through the interior. It may be dull small print, but the Sale of Goods Act is on your side. If you find a problem with your new car, most dealers will fall over themselves to sort it out. If a serious fault occurs, you have two weeks to reject the car and either ask for a replacement or your money back. You can do this if the car is not of ‘satisfactory quality’. Put your complaint in writing to the dealer, explaining the problem in full. Be reasonable, but be firm and clear about what you want done to resolve the problem. Car pick up day checklist The big day has arrived but before you get all excited and drive off into the sunset, take some time to check over the car. Here's a useful list to make sure you cover everything - be sure to alert the dealer if anything falls below standard: Specification Is the car exactly how you ordered? Are all extras you ordered present? Bodywork and Paint Is the car the colour you ordered? Is the bodywork free of any dents, ding or scratches? Are the wheels spotless? Are there any ripples in the paint? Has the paint been touched in anywhere? Is the paint the same consistent colour all over? Are there any chips in the windscreen and other glass? Vehicle Interior Is the interior the colour you ordered? Are there any oily smudges or dirty marks? Are there any scuffs? Do all of the buttons and controls work? Is the stereo present and correct? Are any floor mats you ordered present? Mechanicals Are there any noises from the engine? What about gearbox, clutch, brakes and suspension? Does the car drive like the dealer's demo car? Any smoke from the exhaust? Does the clutch take up smoothly? Does the gear lever engage smoothly? Engine Is the exhaust smoke-free when the engine is warm? If not, there may be a problem Is the coolant reservoir full of brightly coloured coolant? It should not be empty or brown. If not, are there any leaks that need further inspection? Is there plenty of clean oil in the engine? Test Drive Does the car drive in a straight line when you loosen your grip on the wheel? Is the steering accurate and free from play or judder? Does the car pull away and brake easily without any noises or judder? Paperwork Double-check you are the first registered keeper. Is the logbook and service book present and correct? Do you have your insurance sorted? Does the car have vehicle excise duty (road tax)? Do you have copies of all paperwork? Do you have a copy of the warranty? Do you have a receipt as proof of purchase? How To Guides 2008-09-17T01:30:39+00:00 http://dvlaguide.co.uk/index.php/fun_stuff/uk_classic_cars http://dvlaguide.co.uk/index.php/fun_stuff/uk_classic_cars#When:01:30:34Z What is a Classic Car? According to old-classic-car.co.uk finding an answer to this question ranks with establishing the meaning of life (well almost), as there can be no other debate likely to raise the hackles of one group of enthusiasts or another. This is what I'll try to discuss here, with key links included to other pertinent areas of my website including along the way. Older cars can be grouped more or less by the year they were made, such as with vintage and veteran cars for instance, vintage cars (as defined by the Vintage Sports Car Club I think) are anything built pre-1930. A car built between 1930 and WW2 is generally classed as being a Post Vintage Thoroughbred, quite a grand moniker for many cars that fall into this group, which at the time were less than grand. After this time things get significantly less clear, with the term ‘Classic Car’ being applied by various quarters to any car from the 1940s right through in some cases to the 1980s even. Confusing things even more, for the UK enthusiast of classic cars, is the zero rated road tax, and the new DVLA classification of historic car (formerly PLG, which remains for later cars). A visit to your local classic & vintage car show will do little to clear up the situation. Amongst the many displays of accepted classics, such as MGBs, Rileys, old Jags, Triumphs and so on, there will be displays by enthusiasts of much later cars such as the Toyota MR2, Opel Manta, Ford Granada and other fairly recent cars. A local show costs around £3 to enter the grounds of the country estate that it is hosted at, then a further £5 - £6 per person to get into the show area itself, so thats £8+ before I get into the show. But back to the main point. An alternative idea may be to pop down the local newsagent and buy a copy of a magazine devoted to classic cars. A quick flick through certain magazines will do little to help - alongside (say) a serialised restoration of an Austin A40 you stand a very good chance of seeing a buyers guide for a Peugeot 205GTi. Even insurance companies who specialise in older car's are now taking on board the fact that as many not-that-old cars now attract a strong following (witness the Pug GTi and MR2s again), branding cars over 10 years old as ‘modern classics’, which may be a satisfactory way of classifying things, with pre-1980 cars usually approaching the full ‘classic’ status. At the end of the day, the term ‘classic car’ is now accepted as applying to any car over say 15 years of age that has some fan base to draw upon, with one or two exceptions for truly interesting more recent automobiles. I have made no mention of so-called ‘Modern Classics’ simply because these are cars that motoring pundits predict will attract the true full-on fanatical following of older car fans in the not-too-distant future. Becoming a classic car owner involves as much or as little fanaticism for the subject as you wish to take on. Many classic car owners are content to fiddle with their old classic Morris in their spare time, with the car rarely ever seeing the light of day. Some join owners clubs, some of whom then fully immerse themselves with the running of the club and/or its events throughout the rally season. Many owners are content to display their prized historic vehicle at shows up and down the country, whereas others get a taste for historic motor racing and prepare their cars for battle , whether it be side to side full-contact sports such as saloon car racing, or the more gentlemanly (though no less competitive) attraction of speed hillclimbing. For some only absolute perfection will do, the concours arena being their natural habitat, where the ultimate spotless condition of a classic can often mean more than the driving experience of that car, many being trailered in cocooned transporters to avoid flies meeting their maker on the paintwork. At the other end of the scale are those for whom originality is best, and a damp shammy leather over faded but original chromework and an oily rag carefully wiped over the mechanicals is favoured - not for them an old car resurrected with 80% or more of new parts, with the resulting car having a historical link with the past in name only. Then there are those diehard owners for whom owning one or more old cars is not yet enough, and invest yet more of their money in old car memorabilia (often called automobilia), with period tins, petrol cans, enamel signs and so on gracing their garage, or in the case of those as-yet unmarried, living rooms, kitchens and so on. To read up on this subject, see my Automobilia page, or a page dedicated to Motor racing Memorabilia Often once an interest for classic autos has set in, further pleasure can be found by widening the scope of the interest to include classic aircraft, vintage motorcycles such as from Norton, AJS, Matchless, Harley Davidson and others, old commercial vehicles (ranging from pocket size delivery vehicles through to classic fire engines, municipal trucks and army lorries), or even obscure machines such as vintage lawnmowers, elderly bicycles, mopeds, go-karts, scooters and mopeds. Fun Stuff 2008-09-17T01:30:34+00:00